The quartier of Saint-Germain-des-Prés became the hub of the existentialism movement, attracting intellectuals (like Sartre, Camus & de Beauvoir), novelists (Fitzgerald, Joyce, Stein, Hemmingway) jazz musicians, and film directors (Truffaut, Godard).
As we walked through the quartier this morning on our way to La Station de Metro for another adventure, we passed not only shops that reflect the history & culture of the old quartier but also trendy restaurants and boutiques that cater to wealthy Parisians.
Today world class foodie restaurants–like Joel Robuchon’s L’Atelier–have cropped up in the neighborhood.
Wow, look at those prices. We’ll pass on this foodie palais.
We passed many upscale furniture stores and antique stores—much like those on Melrose and Robertson Blvd. in LA.
The quartier also contains shops specializing’s in old books and antique letters & documents of the literary world.
A sculpture of Irish ex-patriot James Joyce (the author of Ulysses, deemed by Random House as the best novel of the 20thcentury) adorns this window display.
Today we hopped on the metro to explore the artsy neighborhood of Montmartre, where many of the artistic elite of the past (such as Dali, Pissarro, Mondrian, Monet, Modigliani & Picasso) had studios.
After climbing about a 500 steps (huffin’ and puffin’) to get out of the metro, we took the funicular (no fee if you have a Metro card) up to the top.
Situated on a hill, Montmartre is the highest point in Paris. The iconic Basilique du Sacré-Cœur rests on top of the hill, which makes the Roman Catholic church the main focal point of Paris. Today Montmartre is a hub of unique shops, restaurants and nightclubs. We did some shopping for gifts here.
As we circled the interior of the basilica during a service, we decided to sit down and listen to the mesmerizing singing of a group of nuns. Pete will include this experience in his upcoming video.
The two dudes @ the bottom of the photo were singing “Sitting on the Dock of the Bay,” by Otis Redding. Why they chose this song at this location totally escapes us.
Tourists from all over the world congregate on the steps of this Roman Catholic basilica. Some come from faraway lands & exotic cultures.
Too bad we followed up this experience with a trip to the sin city of Paris, Place Pigalle. For every yin, there is a yang.
Montmartre borders Place Pigalle, the center of adult entertainment in Paris and home to nightclubs like the Moulin Rouge and numerous topless bars and sex shops (similar to those in Amsterdam’s red light district.) The area was immortalized by painter Toulouse-Lautrec as well as many Hollywood directors.
We stopped for lunch here in a tiny Italian café with a life sized picture of Al Pacino as “The Godfather” on the wall. We have observed that references to American film, music and culture are everywhere in Paris.
We were too full for dessert, even though the pastry was enticing.
Returning to our hotel, we decided to recharge our batteries by taking a dip in its huge spa. We reserved the room for the two us between 5-6.
It was a Zen experience–with colored, twinkling lights, lily pads, piped in soft music, full shower facilities, and robes & slippers. Hugh Hefner would be envious of this Paris grotto.
How will we go back to the Cali ranch again after experiencing gay Paris?
Time to eat again. Café culture is never more prevalent than in Saint-Germain-des-Prés, especially around 9 PM. People laugh, eat, smoke, and . . .
. . . laugh, eat, smoke.
People chat for hours at their tables. Social networking French style!
Just another happy diner
We ate dinner at Pères et Filles (Fathers & Daughters) and had some tasty calamari, salmon and cannelloni. And, of course, dessert.
Some diners, however, prefer to escape the crowds in the cafés and sit by the side of the Seine. As we strolled down the riverbank, we tried to soak up some of our last images of Paris before our departure.
Chocolateries in the area cook up their own special brands of chocolate in the back of their stores. Here are some of the secret ingredients.
Le chapeaux et les chaussures, Parisian style
Two more nights left!
P&J
3 Comments
You’ve had a fantastic trip, one you’ll cherish forever. Paris is still a beautiful city.
I remember the Montmartre area, where Adam vomited after trying one of those delectable dishes. Your experience sounded better though.
Enjoy the rest of your time there.
Flea
We just got home. The internet crashed in Paris, and then Pete’s laptop self-destructed, so these last two entries are coming in late.
Looking forward to one of our lunches and catching up. I read a big chunk of Anne Tyler’s novel on the plane.
Ha! I am now reading an old Anne Tyler novel, Dinner at the Homesick Restaurant. Cannot say, enjoy your trip home. Safe travels.