Tonle River

It is the cool, dry season in Cambodia.  As a result, mosquitoes are not an issue. The temperature highs have ranged from 88 to 96 degrees. During the hot season, beginning in April, It can reach 120. Loose fitting clothes, a ventilated wide-brimmed hat and sturdy sandals facilitate trekking in the heat and humidity.  Sipping water frequently and cooling down periodically in the shade, an air conditioned bus, an airy tuk-tuk or a climate-controlled shop helps to prevent dehydration and overheating. Every once in a while, a cooling breeze is sent by the gods.

Today we boarded a bus and traveled through the countryside on our way to meet our riverboat. We stopped at a roadside market that offered up local delicacies: fried tarantulas, insect larvae and crickets – seasoned with garlic, red chili and herbs. Our guide, Tek, calls it the local KFC (Kampuchean Fried Cricket).  Some adventurous folks gave the bugs a try.  What is not to like about anything deep fried?

To read the captions, click on the first picture and use the arrow keys to navigate the gallery.

Our boat, the RV Amadara, is a year old and decked out in classic French colonial style with lots of woodwork, antiques, and Asian finishes.  Most impressive, it has strong Wi-Fi.

How ironic is it that the first excursion planned for us was a tour of the floating villages of Kampong Chhnang one the Tonle River, where people live in small one room floating houses without running water, sanitation system or, in some cases, electricity? The government is trying to relocate these people to the land as a result of their impact on the environment, but they are content to live a simpler life on the water. The water, of course, is unsafe for most people; but the floating village residents have strong immune systems because they have been swimming, fishing and bathing in it for years.  They boil and filter the water before cooking. Check out Pete’s video of the Floating Village.

As we motored by the homes, we spotted a small flat screen TV in one of the single room homes.  It gives new meaning to the expression “great room.” Although the average family in Cambodia has 2.7 children, the families on the water have an average of 4-5 children. When those outside hammocks are rocking, don’t come knocking. The homes on the shore, by contrast, are on stilts, which provide protection from the rising river during monsoon season and improved air flow.

Later in the afternoon we walked through the small village of Koh Chen, known for its copper and silver products, and observed a school in session.  Educating children is a major priority after the educated elite class was wiped out in the Killing Fields of the Khmer Rouge. Cambodia lost around one-third of its population. Needless to say, the country has a huge shortage of teachers.  People pass down what they  have learned with those lacking in that knowledge; and visitors, like ourselves, are encouraged to teach them English by striking up conversations with them. We were told to never give money to children because they should be in school learning how to get ahead instead of begging in the streets.