France

Day 6 – Beynac (Dordogne Valley)

We decided to take a break from our fast-paced schedule and bask in the tranquility of the Dordogne countryside; today we were in the quaint medieval village of Beynac-et-Carneac. This town has been designated as one of “la plus belle” (most beautiful) in France.  It is a 4-day holiday weekend for the French, and the highways and resort towns are booming. Lots of tourists on motorcycles, car (Porsche) clubs and families fill the roads, les restaurants and les auberges.

Beynac (1 of 37)

For the next 3 nights, we stayed in a charming B&B, Balcon en Foret, a 500-year-old farmhouse run by an amiable, earthy couple.  Sandra and Baudouin have incredibly good taste and a passion for antiquity as you will see in the following pictures.

Beynac (2 of 37)

They are in the process of renovating the buildings, but have been careful to stay faithful to the property’s origins.

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The yards are museums of old farm technology.

Beynac (4 of 37)

Our 2 story accommodation was so charming that we decided not to leave the first day.  As a  thunderstorm was passing, we put on a fire in the old stove, listened to jazz, drank some of the local wine, caught up on our blog, and then woke up the next morning to a chorus of birds.  LE BONHEUR!

Beynac (5 of 37)

Our bed

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A den with a refrigerator and cooler full of wine

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Our upstairs bath

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Old world charm with the convenience of modern technology.  We were so glad they had wi-fi (8mbps no less).

Beynac (3 of 3)

The bathroom’s painted wood floor

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Jill immediately spotted the ceramics.

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Out patio

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The view from the patio

Beynac (1 of 3)

Pete and Baudouin talking TECH.

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Sandra, making us French toast

Beynac (2 of 3)

Anticipating a homemade breakfast, Jill looks excited.

Beynac (13 of 37)

Sandra makes her own yogurt, topped with granola.

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Voilà, real French toast on a slate plate

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A trail that goes from the farmhouse into the village

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The Beynac Chateau overlooks the village.

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Village streets

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It is much warmer here; in fact, it’s shorts weather.  We dined at this spot in the evening.

Beynac (19 of 37)

La Petite Tonnelle is a popular restaurant in town.  The elderly owner, who did not speak English, but could say, “Wazzup!”  LOL.  We did not have reservations this evening, so we showed up early–7:45–and we were seated.  The restaurant was packed by 8:30.

Beynac (20 of 37)

Velouté d’asperges (cream of asparagus soup).  This region is known for its foie gras (duck & goose) and asparagus.

Beynac (21 of 37)

This was Pete’s appetizer–salmon.

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Lamb & lentils

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Veal in a tasty sauce

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We walked up to Chateau Beynac.  It is well preserved.

Beynac (25 of 37)

Beynac (26 of 37)

The Dordogne River viewed from the chateau ramparts

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View from the backyard of the chateau

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Our B & B has a matching fireplace radiator to this one in the chateau

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Pete, looking like the master of the castle

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Well-preserved medieval tapistry

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Some rooms have been furnished.

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We have coatracks in our dining areas; they had sword racks.

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Infinite steps on the spiral staircase . . .

Beynac (34 of 37)

. . . provide a good workout

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A room with a great view

Beynac (36 of 37)

Chateau chapel overlooking the river

 Beynac (37 of 37)

This campground, viewed from the chateau, has a cool pool for tourists with tents or campers.

We will be continuing to describe our visit to this beautiful area over the next two posts.

À tout à l’heure

P&J

3 Comments

  • Reply Michael Bahe May 11, 2015 at 11:44 am

    Beautiful setting. This looks larger than Belcastel, but is even more imposing. Boy – what a place to attend a Halloween Party! Pete – armor would be optional! Are you going to bring back any recipes? Glad you took an extra day to recharge the batteries (now you won’t get sick). Thanks again for sharing, and keep the posts coming!

  • Reply Felice Hunter May 11, 2015 at 6:33 pm

    What a charming place to stay, and what a treat: someone to cook breakfast for you.
    The portions seem reasonable, and with all your walking, you probably won’t gain a pound.

    The Dordogne River view is just magnifique.

    Spiral steps like the ones shown in your photo wiped our my legs for 2 days in Jericho, Israel. Hope you’re having better luck than I did.

    This is the loveliest town so far, but I’m sure others will be shown soon.

    Keep sending the posts and making us all terribly jealous.

    Hugs,

    Flea

  • Reply Dana Hargrave May 12, 2015 at 6:03 am

    I am SOOO jealous! Wish we could be there. What a lovely place! Cheers and Hugs/Dana

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