Greetings from Bohemia, the Czech Republic.
We said goodbye to the river boat and took an 8 hour bus ride from Budapest to Prague. The last 4 days, we have been traveling on foot and on the Metro. The Czechs claim that Prague is the most beautiful city in the world; it’s hard to argue with them, but you can decide for yourself. The town is split into two sections: (Stare Mesto) Old Town, which houses the great gothic, Renaissance, & baroque styles of architecture; and (Nove Mesto) New Town, which has the early 20th century the cubist houses. Wherever we go, however, the sights are candy to our eyes.
The tile rooftops of Prague, viewed from Prague Castle
The famous Charles Bridge
Me (Jill), windswept on the Charles Bridge
Statuary adorn the highly detailed buildings in Old Town.
Fast food Prague style.
We caught the famous astronomical clock in Old Town Square on the hour, so we watched the saints go marching by on the top of the clock. According to Wikipedia, “The central portion was completed in 1410. The four figures are set in motion at the hour, with Death (represented by the skeleton on the right side) striking the time. On the hour there is a presentation of statues of the Apostles at the doorways above the clock, with all twelve presented at noon. A second portion was added in 1870; it shows astronomical information and a calendar display. During World War II the clock was nearly destroyed by Nazi fire. The townspeople are credited with heroic efforts in saving most of the parts. It was gradually renovated until 1948.”
The colorful facades of Old Town
Roma beggars line the street.
Intricate designs made of plaster, called graffito, were applied to the buildings in Old Town.
If Budapest is the Paris of Europe, then Prague is the San Francisco of Europe. As we entered the town, the row houses, pastel hues and electric transit reminded us of SF.
Old town is full of fairytale vistas; view of Prague Castle and St Vitus
Some cafes provide sheepskin seat covers and ”blankies” for diners who want to eat al fresco. The weather is chilly here, (39-55 degrees F), for Prague is further north than the other cities we have recently visited.
Lovely café gardens
Another lock and throw away the key bridge spans the river.
The “John Lennon Wall,” filled with constantly changing graffiti, was created by disenfranchised youth during the Soviet years. The Czech youth of the past equated Lennon with freedom. The French Embassy is across the street from the wall, so the Soviet officials turned a blind eye to this act of rebellion so that the French ambassador would not spread reports of USSR oppression of youth to the West.
Prague Castle. Many of the statues in this city are highly violent in nature.
Buskers of all types—playing classical, jazz, Hungarian, Renaissance, etc., music—fill the city with pleasing sound.
St. Vitus’s Cathedral, built over a period of 700 years. The front is in the gothic style, and the back is in the neo-gothic style.
A view of the back of the cathedral–the neo-gothic side of the church.
Lots of spires, gargoyles and flying buttresses adorn the exterior of St. Vitus’s Cathedral that sits high atop the city. The creepy gargoyles scare off those pesky demons.
A stained glass image of good King Wenceslas as a child. St. Wenceslas, who was generous to the poor, was the only king of the Czechs that was a Czech; the other rulers were mostly made up of the Hapsburgs of Austro-Hungary.
Another spectacular entryway of St. Vitus
The craftwork has an Eastern European (sort of Byzantine) flair.
Being goulashed out, Pete and I found an Italian restaurant in the Jewish Quarter that is rated #2 on Trip Advisor.
Amazing detail adorns the geometric shapes
Pete and I wandered the streets looking for the Kafka Museum
Whoops, we are on the wrong side of the River!
Here it is, but we were not allowed to take pictures inside. What a freaky, surreal multimedia experience lies behind these doors, an homage to the existential angst of the writer.
You’ll just have to settle for some outside shots of Kafkaesque statues. These 2 dudes in front of the Kafka Museum are having a pissing contest. Their hips rotate from left to right as water streams out of their you-know-whats. Pete has some video of this crazy instillation.
Kafka statue in the Jewish Quarter; Some Jungian symbolism here.
Another mind-blowing doorway of Prague. I could write a book called “The Doors of Prague.”
The famous Prague Municipal House, home of the symphony, was built in 1912 to celebrate the Czech nation. It is a representative building, which for its splendor and beautiful decorations, is one of the jewels of Prague architecture. Although the building is usually described as an “Art Nouveau” edifice, it is more of a blend of neo-Baroque, neo-Renaissance, western and oriental influences and Czech Art Nouveau style.
Mucha’s designs are everywhere. In fact, Prague has an entire museum devoted to Mucha. Kate and Harry said the museum was incredible, full of amazing mosaic tile and other architectural treats.
We bought one of these jackets for every guy on this email distribution list. Can’t wait to see Stecker in this. I kid, I kid.
Czech Art Nouveau
Building after building after building has this level of intricate design, a trait of the Art Nouveau Movement.
New Town is as awesome as Old Town. A shot of the famous “Dancing Buildings,” affectionately called “Fred and Ginger.”
A close-up of one of the world’s most famous buildings.
We certainly did not starve here. We ate heartily and drank huge steins of Pilsner Urquell.
Western Europe has cubist paintings and sculpture (Picasso, Braque, Brancusi) but the Czech Republic is the home of Cubist architecture. Most of the cubist style in this neighborhood was built in the early 1900’s.
Prague is the only place you will find Cubist as well as Rondocubist architecture. The famous Czech group included the architects Pavel Janak, Josef Gocar, Josef Chochol, Vlastislav Hofman.
Bohemian glasswork is world renown, but this Kosta Boda glass from Sweden really caught my eye.
The 16 minute video details our trip from Budapest to Prague and the two days we spent touring the city.
We are sad to leave Prague and are planning a trip back soon, maybe one where we begin in Prague; then travel to Krakow, Bucharest, and beyond…. We have so much more we want to see.
Best regards,
Pete and Jill
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